Into the unplannable: The Torowar tribe

Torowar come back from a week of hunting in the jungle    Credit: Hila Rasuli

PART ONE: The weather problem turns into our biggest chance

Heading into the unknown of West Papua always comes with surprises. An adventure traveller has two guarantees:

1. Little will go as planned.

2. There are unforgettable experiences in the unknown. 

Our first journey to the Torowar tribe is a perfect example for that.

It all starts as usual: With a perfect plan. The charter flight is reserved. All local contacts are informed. The budget is made. We had done extensive research about the destination and how to get there. The goal is to visit the iconic Korowai tribe via a new route, which would lead us to six barely visited and traditional Korowai clans - deep in the jungle and far away from the known routes, which most operators frequent. Our friends just arrived in Jayapura. Everyone is excited to the core about the upcoming expedition. The bummer happens two hours after the arrival, when we receive final weather info from the flight charter company: Heavy thunderstorms are to be expected on the flight route, a landing at the destination airstrip can not be guaranteed. The pick-up after the expedition, our flight from the jungle back to Jayapura is not sure either. We might need to wait several days for a good weather window  - A worst-case scenario. 

No one can risk missing international flights. Being stuck in the middle of the jungle and waiting for thunderstorms to pass is not our idea of a once-in-a-lifetime  journey. Being prepared for the best and the worst case, we immediately discuss our plan B. 

Jayapura is beautifully nestled between ocean and mountains and the perfect place to meet and do final preparations for any expedition

Thanks to luck and extensive research, we have precious information to use to our advantage: The government just finished a logging and access road to a tribe, which is completely unknown to the public. The timing is perfect. A decision is quickly made. Our friends are more than happy about the new plan:

“We will be the first foreigners to visit the Torowar tribe. It’s even better than the Korowai!”

It’s time to get to work! Our local contact at the starting destination Wasior, a small town, is equally pumped to visit the Torowar. He knew that we planned to visit the tribe via an expedition this year, but didn’t expect it to be happening that soon. The final route is decided quickly: A flight to Manokwari and a boat charter will lead us to Wasior. A jeep will be on standby, supplies can be arranged today. There still is one crucial component missing: The West Papua related travel permissions / Surat Jalan. We prepare the necessary meetings with government officials in Manokwari and Wasior. The timing is as tight as can be. Sleep is an unaffordable luxury.

Our Jeep is ready for departure

The first Surat Jalan/travel permission is quickly arranged after our arrival in Manokwari. We board the boat. The boat rides smoothly over the calm sea, while we admire the stunning landscape of infinite jungle, postcard islands and shades of ocean colours. Our stress level fades into pure excitement and joy. We finally are on tour! 

Our second permission in Wasior is received. The 6 hour drive in the Jeep leads us deeper and deeper into the jungle. We only stop for the obligatory check-point (showing our Surat Jalan), a lunch break and to admire a group of Lesser Birds-of-Paradise on the way. 

The jungle on the way to the Torowar feels more like an ocean to us, it’s vastness hard to imagine from our small human perspective

Everyone is dead tired at arrival in the Torowar village Undurara, but there is no time for rest. We have a problem. We happily knew that it was coming. The Torowar are shocked about us white and strange people.